As we move West everything becomes more Europeanised. Mosques are replaced by cathedrals. Squat loos disappear (great news for those with bad knees). A much higher proportion speak English.
We are now in Nizhny Novgorod, rather a wonderful city. To some it’s known as Russia’s Detroit because cars, lorries and tanks were made here. But it has a great historic old town and some very beautiful buildings. The picture is of the Alexander Nevsky cathedral which dominates the view over the city.
Fig 1 The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral dominates the skyline
The city is at the confluence of the Oka and Volga rivers and is now a popular cruise destination for those cruising down the Volga. Because of its importance to the Russian military, foreigners were banned from the city in the Soviet era and only allowed back in in 1991. It is also famous as the birthplace of the writer Maxim Gorky.
Perhaps because they have had to develop their tourist trade from zero, the civic authorities have put on a great show for us and made us very welcome. Mike has excelled himself at signing autographs while we have had to tolerate the imposition of hundreds (ok more like 10s!) of pretty girls insisting that they have their photos taken with us.
Fig 2 Mike has become the favourite with the locals, signing autographs..
And our brakes have been playing up, making low speed manoeuvring complicated, pretty frightening when people are lining up with prams, babies and small errant children all around us.
For a few days now we’ve occasionally found ourselves behind a ‘Maigret’ Citroen. And each time we’ve been a bit surprised as its turn of speed. It certainly didn’t hold us up. Eventually I said to Mike ‘I bet he’s souped up the engine’. Little did we know that the car is driven by Mario Illien, founder of Ilmor and one of the greatest motor racing engine builders of all time, and his daughter Noelle. Ilmor has won the F1 championship twice and succeeded at Indycar racing, powerboat racing and even motorcycle racing. Eventually their F1 business was bought out by Mercedes and is still dominating the sport.
Everyone on the rally likes Mario anqd Noelle, for their modest demeanour, their refusal to accept additional backup and their insistence on doing their own work on the car. For more information see: http://www.automobilsport.com/race-categories–24,189753,Grand-Prix-engine-guru-Mario-Illien-to-tackle-Peking-to-Paris,news.htm
Fig 3 Mario Illien’s Citroen…we actually overtook it in traffic…partly because our brakes weren’t working…
PS Mike has returned from the Skoda garage (Skodas are now made in Nizhny, not only for the Russian market) with the brakes working. Fifteen mechanics worked on the car with him till 1.30 am. And not only refused to accept payment. But showered him with gifts….
Mike and Doug are fundraising for the Harinder Veriah Trust. It provides essential equipment and tuition to enable the poorest of pupils to attend the Assunta School in Petaling Jaya, Malaysia. It is a worthy cause and particularly close to Doug’s heart since his first Cub Scout Bob-a-Job week aged 6! The brothers have been supporting the school ever since. To donate or find out more please follow this link: https://www.gofundme.com/7hf8j-peking-to-paris-2019